I first wrote this guide in 2012 when I was living just outside Byron in an old army shed in the forest. I put it together as a rundown of Things to Do as recommended by me and bunch of rad locals I met so that when you – my mates here on this blog – visit Byron, well, you’re sorted. I’ve updated it regularly. The most recent now in September 2016.

Byron Bay lighthouse. Image via Byronnaturally.com.au
Byron Bay lighthouse. Image via Byronnaturally.com.au

As a bit of background, I went to Byron to rest and heal. Which is what it has done for thousands of years. For the local Arakwal Bumberlin people it’s always been a healing and fertility place. The locals say you come here to get healed. Once healed, you need to move on or, if you stay, you must heal others. After 18 months in Byron, I knew my time was up. But it will always be a special place for me.

Byron is a unique place. It’s a sleepy, old-school coastal hamlet in bits, but big bands and performers pass through regularly. It’s full of fancy city types, but the sense of community is potent. It’s transient, but everyone feels they belong. The ladies at the post office know my name. The bank manager chats with me in the street.

Everyone has a theory on the place and why certain phenomena exist. Like, the fact there are seven single women to every single man. (The theory on this one is that it’s due to the area being a female fertility site…men just can’t hack the energy!)

But to the guide…

PS You might also like to read about the road trip I did in the area a while back.

1. Food and drink

The Roadhouse. My favourite venue for coffee and food is, hands down, The Roadhouse. By day they do organic coffee made with organic milk, fermented turmeric and ginger kombucha and gut-healthy breakfasts with sauerkraut and sprouted bread…you get the picture, right? They’re totally Sally Fallon’ed up! At night, it becomes a whisky bar and they churn out simple risottos and slow cooked stuff. Everything in the place is organic and mostly local. There is a fireplace. And herb gardens outside. Love it. Give Liam and Dwayne a kiss from me.

The Roadhouse
A Breakfast of Organic Wholefood Champions: fermented labna, pumpkin, homegrown herbs and sauerkraut with organic milk coffee and turmeric kombucha…

The Farm. This is the Three Blue Ducks joint, just outside Byron, that must be experienced. It’s an outing. It’s an experience. It might involve a wait.

Slow roasted, spiced 1/4 lamb shoulder, black beans, radish, salted onion, tahini yoghurt, toasted almonds. Lunch time on the farm.
Slow roasted, spiced 1/4 lamb shoulder, black beans, radish, salted onion, tahini yoghurt, toasted almonds. Lunch time on the farm.

Bayleaf. The breakfast greens (with or without pulled pork) is fabulous at Bayleaf, and although the cafe has changed hands since this was first written – it still makes an excellent breakfast (possibly the best).

Dip is great. Their BLT is sensational. And while you’re there, try the cashew biscuit – virtually sugar free; just nuts and egg. Here’s the link to their Facebook page.

Fish Mongers. If you’re after fish and chips, Paul from Art Park recommends Fish Mongers – simple, fresh and so imaginative, it’s a wonder no one else does fish like this.

Folk. My mates Lizzy, co-owner of boutique Spell & the Gypsy Collective (check them out on Instagram), and Paul love this place. It’s an almost new haunt a little out of town, with a great vibe. The decor is straight out of Frankie magazine and the food is very Melbourne via the 1970s. They have another cafe in Bangalow – Wood – which I hear is super cute, too.

Folk, Byron Bay
Folk, Byron Bay

Harvest at Newrybar is ace for vibe and makes for a great excursion en route to Bangalow out to the green rolling hills of Byron Bay.

Brekky Greens at Harvest, photo by The Theory, NYC
Brekky Greens at Harvest, photo by The Theory, NYC

Heart & Halo is good Indian-inspired cuisine with pizzas and a mint/poppy seed drink to die for.

Milk n Honey. This Mullumbimby pizza shop comes highly recommended by nearly everyone who has been there. Sadly they don’t do gluten-free bases, but their whole food and artisan wood fired pizzas are mostly organic, fresh and super flavourful. Check them out online.

Muoi’s Feast up near the beach is quirky as all hell. Vietnamese lamb shanks with chips topped with melted cheese anyone? That said, it works. Somehow. Here’s their Facebook page.

Naked Treaties. If you’re after a raw bar, you’ll love Naked Treaties. Jemma makes her own almond milk and her Naked Treatie treats are sold all over Byron – the coconut chocolates are almost fructose free and are 100% organic and sustainable and….you’ve just got to try one! She’s now opened a great place on one of the main drags (down from Targa). It’s astonishingly fresh and healthy. Her smoothies are meals. Try the “I am abundant”… a chocolaty, green, coconutty dream. Say hi to Jemma for me if you’re in there. She radiates raw good health.

Jemma’s bliss balls are…well, blissful

OzyMex Café on the roundabout in the centre of town is great. John (the owner) makes the Byron Bay Chili Co. sauces and corn chips that you can find in supermarkets. I love the nachos and fish tacos and he makes all his own mince and sauces, too. The REAL deal.

Starfish in Brunswick Heads is reported to have the best calamari…ever.

Stone and Wood is Paul from Art Park’s favourite brewery.  He loves their Stone Beer and Pacific Ale. “These guys are new and really supportive of all local events.”

Targa has excellent Italian. They do a great steak. Sam Gowing is a Byron-based spa chef, mentor and nutritionist. She also recommends Targa, for their real teapots that don’t drip, and real tea leaves – she says they do the best green tea in town.

The Balcony do a cracking martini with a sunset backdrop. You can find them here.

The Beach Hotel.  This place has such a great atmosphere in the mornings and is a local favourite. If you want simple and breezy, this is perfect. Jacqueline McCoach, a Byron-based jewellery designer and owner of ‘Jewels by Jacqueline’ agrees. You can find the Beach Hotel website here.

The Poinciana is awesome for the Mullum vibe, lovely outdoor tables and sandpit for kids. You can find them here.

The Belle General is a little further afield… Jacqui and two of her cousins have opened the café on Shelly Beach in East Ballina. Their focus is gluten, dairy and sugar free foods.  I try to plan my trip to Ballina airport to incorporate a coffee or meal here.

Photo by The Belle General
Photo by The Belle General

The Byron at Byron has happy hour from 4-6pm Sun-Thurs and is arguably still the best kept local secret in town.

The Rails is fun for some local action (and the best pub food in town – look out for the pork belly and the kangaroo special). Their website is here.

Top Shop is my other favourite haunt. I like to call it Facebook Mountain because the scene here, as my mate Tim so aptly put it, resembles a General Pants commercial. They also serve organic milk on request. And everyone sits out on the lawn and chats in the sun in the morning. The omelette roll at Top Shop is superb. Their burgers are amazing; they have fennel seeds in the patty. The eggs and bacon are organic and they bake their own bread and pastries. They serve Prem’s Chai tea, too. That stuff is gold. BUT, they only serve their coffee in takeaway containers.

 Coffee at Top Shop, photo by Johnny Abegg
Coffee at Top Shop, photo by Johnny Abegg

The Tennis Courts on Tennyson Street is not a particularly attractive place to sit and relax, but the coffee is very consistent and good.

2. Accommodation

Atlantic Byron Bay. My mate, interior stylist and creative consultant Jason Grant, stayed here recently (as did I, just for a night). Jason says:

I love staying at the Atlantic Byron Bay, its located in town close to the beach and all the great places to eat (so if you want you can walk every where) its my Byron Home Away From Home. I first went there to shoot for my second book and since then there has been a connection. Just like Byron there is a special magic to this place, a feeling of calm, where I totally feel relaxed, Its the only place I stay when visiting paradise.

The Air Stream, at The Atlantic (photo by Jason Grant)
The Air Stream, at The Atlantic. (photo by Jason Grant)

I’ve stayed in their “lodge”. I don’t think they call it a lodge. But it works like this: hotel-size rooms with balconies that feel more like a bedroom in a designer Byron home; own bathrooms; communal kitchen and eating area and deck downstairs; communal gardens; stand-up paddleboards and books and DVDs to borrow.

The porch, at The Atlantic. (Photo by Jason Grant)
The porch, at The Atlantic. (Photo by Jason Grant)

The lodges are also part of the Art Park artists residency program (artists come to stay in Byron and do art at Art Park and stay at Atlantic; their art then displays around the property and is for sale). All of which adds a lovely creative vibe to the place. I love the feel here. Fresh and whimsical.

Is it a good location? Yep. In the middle of town, across the road from Targa restaurant.

Byron at Byron is another great place to stay and is a little out of the chaos. Lyn and Chrissie are gorgeous authentic operators and will make your stay special.

Clarkes Beach Cottages. Lizzie recommends these cottages down on Clarke’s beach. “You cannot get a better position in Byron Bay- rain, hail or shine you can soak it up down there and get some real relaxation. You can literally roll out of bed, walk 20 metres and lunge in the ocean. Pure bliss!” 

The Byron Bay Beach Houses are perfect if you’re visiting as a group or family. Byron Bay Beach Houses is on the Lighthouse Road, just opposite the Captain Cook Lookout (where I would park to surf The Pass). I stayed in the Havana house, set back from the road and backing onto rainforest. It’s a languid, beachy, breezy family home with two big lounge rooms, with generous couches and generous cushions and lots of light and air, four bedrooms (to sleep 10), a pool, barbeque areas and two decks. You getting the picture? Breezy, big and great for entertaining.

3. If you’re here on a (specific day of week/time of month) do try:

Garage Sales. If you’re in Byron Bay on a Saturday, drive around the various garage sales. There are always a good half dozen and are a bit of an institution in Byron, with locals spending the day on their front lawn with their wares for sale and chatting.

Positive Change for Marine Life do a beach clean up every tuesday morning at the Main Beach Carpark.

The Mullumbimby Music Festival in November is one of the best small-scale music festivals around for all ages and persuasions. Check out their site.

The roadside stalls in Newrybar, near Ballina are a favourite of my friend Tori. She goes on a Saturday morning with her son, where they go “shopping” for local produce at the roadside stalls. They arm themselves with loose change and stop at the stalls to purchase everything from honey, to coffee, fruit, vegetables, fresh flowers and eggs and pop the money into the honesty box.

The whale migration happens from May to November. If you keep an eye out you can spot pods of humpbacks from a headland or join one of the tours.

Thursday local farmers market (look out for the raw food stand – the hummus is amazing – and the mushroom ladies – the shitakes almost made me cry – oh, and the ginger couple and the sprouts lady…) and the monthly Sunday craft markets (they rotate around Byron, Bangalow, Mullum and The Channon). Get all the details here.

Byron Bay Farmers Markets
Byron Bay Farmers Markets. Photo by my right brain, Jo, in 2012…

4. Healing

Massage and Spa:

Bay Family Chiropractic is where I go when I’ve been writing all day and my posture is stuffed. My neck gets thrown and so I have to go and get cracked back into place. Not ideal. But you do what you have to do. Peter is great; he’s a super passionate surfer who knows a lot!

Byron at Byron lets you sit in their lovely garden while you wait for your massage there.

Kiva Spa n Mullumbimby. You can get a treatment or just pay $20 to use the out door spas, log fire sauna and steam room.

Mullum Sari has an infared sauna that I loved going to. A beautiful space and experience, which I’d finish off with a dandelion tea at a nearby cafe. Worth the excursion.

Thai Sabai is the best Thai massage.

I also advise checking out the classifieds in the Echo and the noticeboard at Santos in Mullum.
It’s intriguing just how many different esoteric healings one can have!

5. Shopping

As you might know, I’m not much of a shopper but there are a few places that I recommend checking out…

Art Park is a bit of a hub for Byron’s artistic, surfing, graffiti etc community. It’s a gallery-based clothing company,  an art publisher, an online art store and they also run a series of very fun gallery openings (basically a BBQ in the car park with beer and music and kids skating about), as well as an artists’ residency programme. The gallery/store is in the industrial estate (you REALLY have to head out there for a visit) and some of the world’s raddest artists contribute to their shows, their clothes and their quarterly Art Park Journal. Paul, the owner, is an ace guy and wrote the very funny kids book A, B, C & W: The Country and Western Alphabet . Look out for their Hard Folk baseball caps, too.

The Byron Bay Arts & Industry Estate. Check out glass blowers, silver smiths, fairy shops, vintage stores, a circus tent, soap and candle makers. The tourist office has a map/trail for the area.

Monthly craft markets can be a bit of a hub of crocheted coat hangers, but the Sunday craft markets that rotate around a bunch of towns in the area are actually very, very cool.

Island Luxe in Bangalow stock Jacqueline’s amazing designs. I get asked nearly every day where my necklaces come from; you can find them here.

Spell & the Gypsy Collective Boutique sells beautiful clothing, jewellery, accessories, candles and more. It’s recently moved to the centre of town. Well worth checking out.

The Spell Shop
The Spell & the Gypsy Collective shop

 6. Exercise

Swimming / surfing:
The daily ocean swim was one of my favourite things to do when I lived in Byron. We met at 8am at the Surf Club, walked to The Pass and then swam back (about 1.5km). A group of 20-50 locals do it every single morning. I did it once or twice a week. First time I did it I got mauled by bluebottles, the second time I swam over a shark. But don’t let that put you off! The old locals who’ve been doing it for decades make it the most wonderful start to the day. Anyone can turn up and swim. It’s free.

If you’re chasing a surfboard, I bought my longboard from Brett Munro of Munro Handcrafted Surfboards at the Industrial Estate. He’s a Byron legend. An all-round legend. He hand-shapes all his boards and sells quite a few second-hand. The experience was soothing in itself because Brett is THAT laid back. He also lets you take a board out for a trial and will let you exchange if you’re not 100% comfortable. NOTHING is a problem. And if your board needs some TLC, check out Dr Ding.

Walking/running:
For a walking/running route, go from Clarkes Beach to the lighthouse. At sunrise. It’s magic. I did it as early as possible and meditated on the eastern most point of Australia with the new sun on my face. While doing this once, looked up, and there were two whales breaching right in front. Did I say magic?

Minyon Falls is a cracker of a place to hike. Head out along the bush track past Broken Head and walk down one of the tracks to an isolated beach. You can find maps and local information here.

image via Flickr
Minyon Falls. Image via Flickr

At the other end of the spectrum, the rainforest route to or from the lighthouse via Lee Lane (map here) for a big leg workout.

Yoga:
Ananta yoga
is in a pretty grim location (up near Mitre 10 on Jonson St), but Geoff is a sublime teacher. A vinyasa style with tough bits. Check here for class times.

Byron Yoga above Centrelink is another great yoga joint. If John Ogilvy is in town, definitely catch one of his classes. He’s one of the best and most entertaining teachers in Australia. Sarita recommends Kirsty, the Canadian teacher.

7. Extra helpful things

If you’re having Mac computer issues: this guy is seriously the best computer fixerer on the planet – Tom at Mr Mac. He comes to you, cleans out your hard drive as part of the service – $80/hour.

Late Night Video is a video store owned by utter film buffs. Paul recommends going there.

Need waxing/tanning? Carla at Be Waxed Be Tanned on Fletcher street is super. And a delight to visit. I giggle the whole way.

The Vista also have a beautiful guide to Byron. You can download it here.

Hope that helps…feel free to add your own tips below…

Have your say, leave a comment.

  • Will

    So many Wonderfull Things to do in byron I’m there

  • Shelley

    I’m planning to move to Byron in April/May of 2014, thank you – i just love this blog for inspiration!

  • Rachael

    Hi Sarah 🙂 I have just returned from a sneaky little Byron getaway and would like to thank you for recommending Atlantic Byron Bay. As a solo traveller I absolutely loved how the guesthouses were affordable, yet they still felt like a luxurious little retreat. Gemma’s Naked Treaties served me by far the best green smoothie (the ‘I am light’ one = delicious!) and their choc-mint balls are so tasty that it’s hard to believe they are so good for you!

    Anyway, this is the second time I have used your guide for a trip to Byron (last time i stayed at the Byron at Byron….it was pure magic!). So thank you for giving us an authentic (and comprehensive) insight into the trappings of this charming little town. x

  • Ted Hekk

    Ye! I arrived in Byron several years ago. The peace, love & kindess I received…it’s. …um…erh…I wish I could explain. I live in my head but I somehow I fell into my heart in Byron. I met this beautiful woman & she said she would help me become one with the universe and that I needed to expand my consciousness. She was like a rainbow that wrapped itself around me and I was taken on a journey. I started to have inner feelings of peace love & happiness flow out from my belly. And my inner delight was to watch the fullmoon rise and sun sets. I would sometimes gaze upon flowers for hours and hours thinking how beautiful they looked. A really special occasion was seeing whales and dolphins splash in the ocean. I would swim in the sea everyday and would bury my hands into the sand and it was like this energy was traveling into me. I had much beauty fun and laughter. ….but one new year eve I stayed in Byron and I all the peace and love ran away from me. That new year’s eve I saw people fighting each other and hurting one another. People were doing things to each other that seemed so strange for the Byron Bay I had known. It was about this time I started to leave my heart and I traveled back into my head….but the voice I heard said to me ‘please dont go I need you…sometime later I parked my pushbike under a flowering frangipani tree and when I returned I found the basket filled with fallen frangipani’s. So I cycled around town handing out these frangipani’s to woman who put the flower in their hair.

  • Will

    Minyon falls is beautiful, but it should be remembered that it’s a massacre site. The same with the headland at Lennox Head. These places should be visited with respect, remembering the original people and what happened to them there.

  • Rusty Kate

    My name is Rusty Kate, from UK I never
    believed in love spells or magic until i met this spell caster once.
    when i went to Africa in July this year on a business summit. i ment a
    man called Dr. OGUDO.He is powerful he could help you cast a spells to
    bring back my love’s gone,misbehaving lover looking for some one to love
    you, bring back lost money and magic money spell or spell for a good
    job.i’m now happy & a living testimony cos the man i had wanted to
    marry left me 3 weeks before our wedding and my life was upside down cos
    our relationship has been on for 2 years… i really loved him, but his
    mother was against me and he had no good paying job. so when i met this
    spell caster, i told him what happened and explained the situation of
    things to him..at first i was undecided,skeptical and doubtful, but i
    just gave it a try. and in 6 days when i returned to New York, my
    boyfriend (is now my husband ) he called me by himself and came to me
    apologizing that everything had been settled with his mom and family and
    he got a new job interview so we should get married..i didn’t believe
    it cos the spell caster only asked for my name and my boyfriends name
    and all i wanted him to do… well we are happily married now and we are
    expecting our little kid,and my husband also got a new job and our lives
    became much better. in case anyone needs the spell caster for some
    help, email drogudospelltemple@gmail.com you can see what he can do and i
    belive that he can do so four you toooooo.

  • Rusty Kate

    My name is Rusty Kate, from UK I never
    believed in love spells or magic until i met this spell caster once.
    when i went to Africa in July this year on a business summit. i ment a
    man called Dr. OGUDO.He is powerful he could help you cast a spells to
    bring back my love’s gone,misbehaving lover looking for some one to love
    you, bring back lost money and magic money spell or spell for a good
    job.i’m now happy & a living testimony cos the man i had wanted to
    marry left me 3 weeks before our wedding and my life was upside down cos
    our relationship has been on for 2 years… i really loved him, but his
    mother was against me and he had no good paying job. so when i met this
    spell caster, i told him what happened and explained the situation of
    things to him..at first i was undecided,skeptical and doubtful, but i
    just gave it a try. and in 6 days when i returned to New York, my
    boyfriend (is now my husband ) he called me by himself and came to me
    apologizing that everything had been settled with his mom and family and
    he got a new job interview so we should get married..i didn’t believe
    it cos the spell caster only asked for my name and my boyfriends name
    and all i wanted him to do… well we are happily married now and we are
    expecting our little kid,and my husband also got a new job and our lives
    became much better. in case anyone needs the spell caster for some
    help, email drogudospelltemple@gmail.com you can see what he can do and i
    belive that he can do so four you toooooo.

  • Bizarley

    Don’t forget the wonderful Soul Bowl and all their creations. It’s a Byron tradition. Such a great part of the world.

  • Wow what an incredible list of things to do! I can’t wait to explore Byron now! ^_^

  • Todd Allen

    Nice Eco friendly Restaurant in byron bay “O-Sushi Japanese restaurants” Once Visit If you want a great services and quality from them!

    Follow them here: http://maps.google.com.au/maps/place?q=restaurant+byron+bay&hl=en&cid=14677223243196390039

  • Jenny

    Thanks for the tips Sarah. I have just landed in Byron for a long weekend and had a massage with Rachel who was amazing. She’s working in town now and is a little more expensive but totally worth it. I am now on the coffee hunt so will check out some of your recommendations but first a walk to the lighthouse!

  • Byron Bern

    Kane at Macs milk bar makes probably the best coffee in town. I’ve tried everywhere else and still think he’s the best.

  • Kathryn

    interesting. I’ve tried them, but never thought they were that great.

  • Shari Leigh

    Lovely article but the stats? I’ve had this conversation more times than I can remember in my 20+ years as a Byron resident and I cannot understand why the myth persists: According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics 2012 – Population of Byron Bay – Males: 4,776, Females: 4,644. Its doesn’t take much effort to fact check a little these days, and readers might take you more seriously if you make that little effort…http://stat.abs.gov.au/itt/r.jsp?RegionSummary&region=112011240&dataset=ABS_NRP9_ASGS&geoconcept=REGION&datasetASGS=ABS_NRP9_ASGS&datasetLGA=ABS_NRP9_LGA&regionLGA=REGION&regionASGS=REGION

  • Amelia

    What about the Byron corner store?! I’ve been a local in Byron for 15 years and I know all the locals love this place! Fresh made sandwiches and coffees/milkshakes/juices to go.

  • Leanne

    You’re definitely going to have to add Three Blue Ducks at the Farm to the must-do list, awesome!

  • Cute photo of Edie and her bike!

  • Phoebe Sellaroli

    I’m heading up to Byron this weekend and would love to do a hike. You recommend Minyon Falls here, but I can’t quite work out your directions referring to Broken Head? Do you do the Minyon Loop Walking Track to the Lookout, or the Three Sisters track around Broken Head?
    Thank you so much xx

  • You need to spend more time in Mullumbimby Johhny. Sadly your impression of central BB is correct. It’s wall to wall backpackers and all about D, S and R&R. For the real deal check Mullumbytes on FB

  • jasmin, make it a Friday and go to the mullumbimby market. THE best.

  • Yes she is.

  • Sophie Ireland

    SAtah thank you so much! I was searching for a guide to Byron bay and came across this and it is so helpful! I’m about to embark on a 12 month trip around the world with my family and we plan to spend a month in Byron in January 2018 (planning ahead I know!) we were torn between staying near the beach or going to a hinterland town – likely bangalow. I’m guessing you’d suggest the beach. Am I right?? Thank s.